Eating in Suzhou: famous local foods
Chinese food is popular everywhere. No matter where you go, there’s probably a Chinese restaurant! However, at least in Spain, until very recently it was not easy to find a Chinese restaurant that served things different from the usual fare of fried rice, spring rolls and sweet and sour pork. Which are totally fine, but there’s so much more variety in Chinese food! Savoury, spicy, sweet or sour, every region in China has its own cuisine where one flavour prevails. In Suzhou, in case you were wondering, sweet is king! Let’s see which are some of the most famous local dishes here.
– Sweet and sour fish, a.k.a squirrel fish (松鼠桂鱼)
This is the absolute star of any meal with guests. It’s a whole fish cut in a way that resembles the tail of a squirrel (or that’s what Chinese people say), battered, fried and covered in an orange sweet and sour sauce. It’s quite a sight and very tasty, but better make sure that the piece you take is well covered in sauce, as the fish comes almost always from a small aquarium and you can literally taste it. (I have to say this: fish and seafood is not too good in China, at least for someone who comes from Spain. But nothing that cannot be fixed with a delicious sauce).
– Eel in oil (响油鳝糊)
There are many lakes around Suzhou, so many of the popular local dishes contain aquatic animals. By the way, if a shrimp from the sea is seafood, a shrimp from the lake is… lakefood? Or is it also called seafood? This dish is made with yellow eel cut longitudinally and covered with a brown sauce. When it’s brought to the table, the waiter pours hot oil on top. I always joke and say this is snake… because it looks like it!
– Stir fried shrimp (清炒虾仁)
This is a very simple dish that Suzhounese love to eat. C. always orders it when we are eating with guests, and it is also served in weddings and New Year dinners. It consists of very small shrimp, peeled and stir fried with a bit of cornstarch, and then eaten with a bit of soy sauce. C. always jokes and says the shrimp are peeled by toothless grandmas who use their gums to do the job.
– Lotus root stuffed with glutinous rice and sprinkled with osmanthus flowers (桂花糖藕)
I like all kinds of food and I eat my way through this list without any problems, but this is my favourite. The lotus root is crunchy and juicy at the same time, the rice is sticky and the sauce is sweet. Yummy! According to Baidu, this recipe is originally from Zhejiang, but you can find it in all the Suzhounese food restaurants.
– Suzhou-style noodle soup (苏式汤面)
It is said that northern Chinese eat noodles and southern Chinese eat rice, but even though Suzhou is considered to be south, noodles are very popular here. The local noodles are very long and thin and in their most basic version they are served only with the broth and a bit of chopped chives, but there are many other varieties with toppings added. I was googling Suzhou noodles and came across this article, in which a Shanghai fanboy discovers them. Hehe. It seems he was really impressed: “[…] right here, in Shanghai’s backyard, is a noodle culture that is as sophisticated as Japan, among the most delicious things you can eat in China, and accessible by train in 30 minutes. Suzhou”.
– Meat mooncakes (鲜肉月饼)
These are called mooncakes, like the ones eaten during Mid-Autumn Festival, but they have nothing to do with them. They are sold all year round and are actually very good! As their name clearly indicates, the filling is meat and, like most Suzhou food, they are slightly sweet. These are not eaten in restaurants but bought in bakeries and eaten as a snack, but I added them to the list because as far as I know they are only available in the Yangtze river delta area.
You might have noticed that there’s not much “green” in these dishes. Vegetables are ordered during meals and banquets to balance the abundance of sauces and fat in other dishes, but they are usually just stir fried greens that are not considered a local speciality.
Have you tried any of these Suzhou foods? What’s your favourite type of Chinese food?
Thank you for sharing these dishes, they look delicious. It will be interesting to see, as your son grows, what his favorite dishes are. Do you cook any Spanish food or just eat Chinese?
If I cook myself, then it’s Spanish! However these days I rarely cook myself as my mother in law prepares lunch and dinner while I’m working.
Wow, that is a wonderful mother/n/law, then that allows you time with your son. :)
I love 松鼠桂鱼! One of my favorites. I didn’t know it’s from Suzhou. I tried it in Chengdu and Kunming.
It’s very popular so it can be found in many places! But apparently it comes from Suzhou :D
I am not much for lakefood or seafood (sushi excepted!). I guess I would be eating the lotus root and the noodles!
Don’t bother with lakefood/seafood in China, but if you go to Spain you have to try!
Your post makes me so hungry! Now I feel like Chinese food… (thank God I live in Hong Kong, haha!)
Charmaine Ng | Architecture & Lifestyle Blog
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You have lots of options! xD
I have definitely tried the sweet and sour fish one! It’s quite popular on Malaysian menus and the whole fish, including the head as you said, gets served. Some people also eat the fish head and eyeballs…not my kind of thing but okay for others I guess XD I’ve also had the Suzhou-styl noodle soup at some point. I didn’t like it lol, but I think it was probably that one dish that wasn’t good.
The meat mooncakes sound like meat pastries you get in Asian bakeries – we have something similar here in Australia and they are always sold in Asian bakeries.
Yes, here it’s always the whole fish. There’s no such thing as a fish fillet, haha!
I’ve had squirrel fish before (probably made with a salt water fish). Very tasty. I don’t think we call lake fish seafood. I’ve never done much fishing, but I think the fishermen around here just call the fish they catch in the lake by their particular names, like trout or bass or perch.
The stuffed lotus root looks delicious. I’m sure I’d like it. I enjoyed reading about Suzhou dishes.
Done with a salt water fish must be way better. I’m not a big fan of lake/river fish!
I have a colleague from Huzhou who prefers fish from lakes than from the sea. He recently asked me if we call it “lakefood” and I honestly had to think about it before realising that it’s called fresh water fish/prawns/snails!
Right! Fresh water! For a moment I was wondering if it was called “sweet water fish”, as in Spanish lakes and rivers are “sweet water”.
How’s Shanghai treating you?
Oh god, lately there have been way too many food blog posts about all the great stuff in China. I am currently starving here and this is not good at all to watch all the delicious food ;)
Haha! So when’s your next visit?
15th of April we will fly to China again for one month :)
Ah, just two more weeks!! Any planned trips?
We had Thailand planned at first but that won’t happen it seems so it will probably turn into a few days in Hong Kong. Besides that we will also visit some friends in wuhan
For veggies try 香椿 Toona sinesis or Chinese mahogany shoots, they are currently in season in Suzhou
Thank you for the recommendation! I googled it and seeing the pics I don’t think I’ve ever eaten this.
Also pea shoots are showing up this week. Sign of spring in Suzhou.
Those I’ve had! I like them.
I LOVE Chinese food (the proper stuff)….I love noodles/eggplant/shredded potato/dry cooked spicy beans and of course jaiozi……
I’m a big fan of eggplant too! And broccoli!
This post made me so hungry! I can’t wait to go back to China and eat more delicious food.
Do you come often? Where do you usually go? :)
One of our favorite meals in Suzhou was Jiangsu cuisine. Song Helou Restaurant made it the best. Here are so,e great local place to go to in Suzhou
https://www.traveltosuzhou.com/suzhou-at-a-glance/food-cuisine
I’ve been to Song Helou several times, it’s very nice!
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